Blog 3: Crete and Rhodes

31 May – 26 June 2017

We're about to leave Rhodes, having spent June exploring the islands of both Crete and Rhodes. We now intend to make our way north to Agmar Marine's boatyard in Partheni at the north of Leros island. We've had good reports about them, particularly in respect of their security. There we'll leave Island Drifter for the summer while we return to the UK and we'll pick her up again in mid-September.

 

Route taken – Crete and Rhodes

CRETE

Chania

Our landfall in Greece was made on 31 May in Chania, Crete, after a 450-mile passage from Malta.   We came into Chania and stayed because it is a port of entry, is close to areas of particular interest to us and has a good bus service.  

Aerial view of Chania harbour and Old Town

Crete is the largest and most important island in the Aegean.  It is dominated by a high mountain backbone (up to 2469m) that runs the length of the island.  Most of the north coast is comprised of a fertile and very well-populated plain. On the south coast the land drops abruptly to the sea from the mountains and a few roads run directly over those mountains to sparsely populated villages.

 

Key locations in Crete referred to in this Blog

Walking the Samaria Gorge from the White Mountains south to the beach at the isolated (i.e. no connecting road) of Agios Roumeli was on our “Bucket List” – indeed, unfortunately, it would appear to have been on many other people’s List.     The scenery was striking but there was only a limited opportunity to commune with nature except possibly towards the end of the 16-km hike, by which time the crowd was well spread out.

Helen hugging the cliff edge in order to traverse 

the narrowest point of the gorge as the river flowed past towards the sea   

H

At the end of the walk we put our feet up for three hours on a sun lounger under a parasol.  Helen even enjoyed a swim in the Libyan Sea. Finally, we caught a ferry to Sougia, the nearest road access where we rejoined our coach and returned to Chania.   A long and interesting day.  Next morning we were as stiff as boards!  

 

 Leaving Agios Roumeli by ferry at the 

mouth of the Samaria Gorge

In his “youth”, although he’d never been to Crete, Mike had to give a 2-hour presentation on the German airborne assault (the first serious parachute assault of its kind) of the island and the Commonwealth Forces’ subsequent retreat and evacuation. Since then therefore he’s always wanted to visit Crete.

 

Maleme airstrip (now under Greek military control – hence the surreptitious photograph), one of the German Force’s four drop zones. They ultimately established a bridgehead at Maleme from which they subsequently advanced and successfully occupied Crete

Both sides sustained heavy casualties albeit they each learned different lessons from the engagement. The Germans never again used parachute troops on a major assault while the Allies dramatically expanded, from almost nothing, their own parachute forces and used them effectively on major drops on D-Day, Arnhem and the Rhine Crossing.  

We visited Suda Bay to see the Commonwealth War Graves at the extreme west end of the bay.  What struck us in particular was that fifty percent of the graves were of unknown sailors, soldiers and airmen.  Clearly both of their dogtags must have been removed before burial in various makeshift gravesites on the island from which they were later disinterred and then buried at Suda Bay.   

 Commonwealth War Graves at the head of Suda Bay

We also went by bus to the German War Graves at Maleme, some 20 miles west of Chania.  Both these and the Commonwealth War Graves were kept in immaculate condition. The German cemetery, however, had set up an excellent photographic museum which helped one visualise both the assault and the difficulty that the War Graves Commissions had clearly had in setting up both the Commonwealth and German cemeteries.  Despite all their efforts, many bodies from both sides have never been recovered.

 

The German War Graves Cemetery overlooking the airstrip at Maleme; horizontal headstones set in fields of ground-covering red fig marigolds

On the evening before we left Chania we went out for supper with Fred and Maria van Leeuwen from the Netherlands. They were our neighbouring boat moored on the town quay.  Having been in Chania since early April, they were most knowledgeable about the area and we benefited enormously from – and were grateful for – that local knowledge.

 

Supper out in the Old Town in Chania, adjacent to the quay, with Fred and Maria van Leeuwen  (on S/Y Nördj) on our last evening in Chania

Rethymno

Further east, the old Venetian town and harbour, within the larger commercial port of Rethymno, are described somewhat euphemistically by Rod Heikell in his pilot book as “one of the most attractive spots in Greece”. 

 

The Old Venetian Harbour and Town of Rethymno

Unfortunately, although we had obtained permission to moor in the old harbour, the restaurateurs had expanded their territory to the very edge of the quay, had removed mooring lines and claimed that there were no spare berths.  Complete nonsense as we later, that night, found out – but nothing we could do about it.  We therefore went and moored bows-to Med-style on the visitors’ pontoon in the so-called “new marina”.   There wasn’t actually another visitor in sight – only local boats and long-term liveaboards.

 

Island Drifter with a very good view from the somewhat decrepit visitors’ pontoon in Rethymno “marina”

  

The pontoon and “marina” were, to put it mildly, a bit “rough”: an old concrete pontoon, no security fencing, a small grotty toilet/shower, no water or electricity points working and, disconcertingly, clearly there was a vermin problem – not unusual in an old port that has been converted into a marina. 

 

Baited rat traps and warp protector – to try to stop the little blighters getting on board

Heraklion

We were already thinking of giving Heraklion, Crete’s capital, a miss.   Our friends Rolf and Roz Budd who had stayed there a fortnight earlier had had their yacht broken into while they were out for lunch and the Port Police told them they were not the first.

 

Entrance to Heraklion harbour

Adam Hopkins’ remarks in his travel book convinced us to avoid the place, even though it was the most convenient location from which to visit Knossos (which we haven’t yet done).

“For yachtsmen there is little attractive to find about the city – on the first day one knows beyond contradiction that Heraklion is one of the least pleasant cities in the Mediterranean. Only people born there love it!”

Spinalonga Lagoon

Spinalonga Lagoon on the northeast coast of the island was fascinating to sail in since we could see the seabed slipping past, sometimes no more than a metre under the keel. It's possible to anchor almost anywhere in the lagoon, depending on wind direction.

 

Chart plotter view of us anchored in a small bay within Spinalonga lagoon

 At anchor in Spinalonga lagoon:

(note boom tent which provided essential shade in temperatures of 30°C or more)

 
The western side of the lagoon has been developed outwards from Elounda (at the southern end of the lagoon) in a series of attractive, upmarket holiday locations.  

Looking across the attractive local harbour 
at the resort of Elounda

Helen sets off at speed from our anchorage 

to shop in Elounda

              

The island of Spinalonga itself at the entrance of the lagoon contains a well-restored Venetian fort and an abandoned leper colony, which still housed inmates as late as 1957, well after a cure for the disease had been discovered.   It was uncomfortable being made aware of the pitiful existence that the banished lepers must have endured.  

 

Spinalonga Island with Venetian fort

and abandoned leper colony

The water temperature in the enclosed lagoon was 28°C.  By comparison, Calshot at its very best hits 19°C!   Even Mike needed to take a dip. 

 

Mike captured taking a rare swim (without a wet suit)

Agios Nikolaos

We went to Ag Nik, the setting of a 1970s’ TV soap “The Lotus Eaters”, in the hope that it might be an appropriate place to leave Island Drifter for two months in the summer.

Damien, one of Max Walker Yacht Delivery’s skippers, recently overwintered in Agios Nikolaos and had been complimentary about the marina and boatyard.   We understand his views as a liveaboard.   In our case, as  cruisers leaving our boat for two months, we felt that the place lacked security and, indeed, those liveaboards we spoke to confirmed that view.  

 

Agios Nikolaos boatyard and marina

Once an attractive fishing village, Ag Nik is now a booming tourist resort.  The marina is, fortunately, some distance away from the principal tourist haunts.  The old harbour, for which there is no admittance for yachts, and the 67m-deep lake (an extinct fumarole) are particularly unusual and attractive features of the town.  

The attractive 67m-deep fumarole in the centre of Agios Nikolaos, with the commercial harbour in the background

 

RHODES

We left Crete in the prevailing northwesterly wind and headed northeast to Rhodes in a consistent 15-knot wind on the beam.  

 

"Blue water" sailing, between Crete and Rhodes, at its best

En route we kept to the west coasts of the islands of Kasos and Karpathos. The latter has a renowned anchorage of refuge at Tristoma, had we needed it.  Given the forecast we obtained from Passageweather on the internet as we approached Rhodes, we also decided to keep to the west of the island in order to continue to benefit from the northwesterly wind.   Ultimately, we rounded the sandy northern tip of Rhodes/Rhodes Town at midnight.

 

View south of Rhodes Town with its four 

old harbours to the left

Rodos (New) Marina

Our actual entrance into the marina was not particularly easy since it was pitch dark and there were quite a few obstacles to avoid. Our new £20 five-million candle-power spotlight proved invaluable, as indeed it had an hour earlier when we were yet again stopped at night by the Hellenic Coast Guard, who this time got a shock when our spotlight was more powerful than theirs!  By this stage, we reckoned that WE should always check THEM out first, since in these waters they could be anybody. 

 

Temporarily moored on waiting quay at Rodos Marina with its massive breakwater

Next morning we found that the new Rodos Marina ambitious complex was soulless, only twenty percent occupied and very expensive. (For what?)   It is currently incomplete. Being an EU-financed project, it is clearly being developed with no expense spared.  Most cost-conscious cruisers avoid it like the plague.  It appeared to be of interest only to superyachts, charterers on short holidays and shared costs, those with unlimited budgets – and people like us who couldn’t immediately get into Mandraki public harbour and therefore had no choice. 

 

Palatial reception area at Rodos New Marina

 – no expense spared

We got out of the place as quickly as we could and motored up to Mandraki harbour, adjacent to the Old City, where by then we had arranged a berth bows-to Med-style to the quay, but with our Danforth anchor and tape rode off the stern in place of the more usual pre-laid lazy line.

 

Helen drawing attention to our anchor and tape

rode which we required off the stern when

moored bows-to in Mandraki Harbour

               

The entrance to the old Mandraki port is said to be where the 105ft-high Colossus of Rhodes stood for 65 years from 290BC, before it and a large part of the city collapsed in a massive earthquake.  The Colossus was one of the Seven Wonders of the World. It is said that the Statue of Liberty in New York harbour was partly based on the Colossus concept.

 

Disney-esque interpretation of the 105ft-high bronze Colossus of Rhodes

Today the entrance to the harbour is “guarded” by a medieval fort and two large bronze deer atop tall pillars.  

 

Mandraki Harbour, where we were based, on the inside of the breakwater

Entrance to Mandraki Harbour, Colossus’s pillars now topped by a stag and deer (the City’s symbol)

Rhodes is the largest island in the Dodecanese – those islands close to and once ruled by Turkey until the end of WWI when they were “handed over” as reparation to Italy, only to be taken back and handed over as reparation to Greece in 1947.

Rhodes’ beaches, history, opportunities for sightseeing, night life and ease of visiting other islands and countries by sea or air, together with its reputation as the sunniest island in the Aegean, has made it one of the most popular tourist locations in Greece.  

The island’s main holiday resorts run down the east coast, which is significantly better protected from the strong Meltemi wind from the northwest than the west coast.  The east coast’s sandy beaches are strung like a necklace between two jewels: The Old City of Rhodes and the Acropolis-topped town of Lindos.

 

Rhodes’ medieval fortified Old City and harbours 

We followed the advice given in the guidebooks, got up before dawn and walked around the Old City before the “hordes” descended. It was well worth the effort doing so.   By mid-morning the place was heaving.

 

Labyrinthine street in the Old City, with arches designed to support the buildings during earthquakes

 

Enjoying an early-morning coffee, on our own, in the courtyard of the Inn of the Knights of Auvergne at the end of our tour of the Old City

The Old City’s defences were constructed by the Knights of St John who moved to Rhodes after giving up their aspirations in respect of Jerusalem. The fortifications proved a formidable barrier to subsequent invaders and in particular Turkish ambition.   After several unsuccessful assaults, it finally took a 6-month siege by 200,000 Turks for them to take the City which had been held by 290 knights and 6,000 local Greek soldiers.  

 

Some of the many “cannon balls” in the moat that were launched by catapults strung between two ships and fired on the City during the Great Siege 

– they are all over the place

The Knights cleverly negotiated a deal whereby they were allowed to leave Rhodes for Malta. There they set about building the enormous fortifications that withstood many a siege and still stand today.
 

The “Street of the Knights”  where the knights, who came from all over Europe, lived in 

separate Inns depending on nationality

We were impressed by the attitude of the support services provided in Mandraki harbour.  In particular, there is a well-stocked pro-active convenience store on the quay, Aspasia Supermarket, where nothing appeared to be too much trouble.  Peter even got our gas bottle refilled, which we hadn’t been able to do.  

 

Brother and sister Peter and Vana, whose support services in their Aspasia supermarket are second-to-none

Although there is a harbour master (George), the agents in the port who “deal” in berths and support services control availability and, as we found, rise to the occasion when one needs help.  (In our case, our engine charging system which stopped charging needed a good electronic engineer to sort it out – he arrived within the hour.)  We dealt with Nikos of the Navigo/Sky Marine Agencies.  He is a London-born Greek who now runs his own business in Rhodes.

While we were berthed in Rhodes, Mike took four days to fly back to the UK in order to attend a Thanksgiving Service for Ken Bowman, a former colleague and good friend.  We shall both miss him.   Unfortunately, given the total lack of security in Mandraki Harbour, Helen had to stay with the boat. 

 

Ken Bowman, 1939 - 2017

While back in Harrogate, Mike thoroughly enjoyed an evening’s BBQ at Henry and Sarah’s allotment – where Henry is now Chairman of the Association!  Their allotment has been significantly improved since his appointment, which fortuitously coincided with some time off when he  moved between jobs. Henry is now working for Sellers in Huddersfield, who manufacture carpet-finishing machinery which they sell worldwide.  A step forward from his former position at Lamberts in Tadcaster, since as the Project Manager he now reports directly to the Managing Director.

Mike enjoyed his first "allotment" BBQ at Henry and Sarah's immaculate plot in Knaresborough

Before leaving Rhodes city, we watched the Lions’ first rugby test in a local sports bar, surrounded by good-natured but gloating New Zealanders!  We eventually left our “friends” celebrating while we departed with as much dignity as one can having lost 30–15.  (We have been following the Tour since it started on 3 June and plan to watch the next Test – probably in Kos.)

Surrounded by gloating Kiwis following the All Blacks’ victory against the Lions

Lindos

Straight after the match, we had to leave Mandraki as it was fully booked from Saturday for a week by Turkish boats arriving to celebrate Eid, the end of Ramadan.  Rumour has it (unproven) that they can empty a supermarket of all its hard liquor overnight!   Having never met any Turkish sailors before, we found them very interesting and good company. 

Ahmet Seven whose company we enjoyed in Rhodes. He speaks four languages fluently. It was very interesting to talk to him about sailing opportunities in Turkey and the country in general (about which we had very little previous knowledge)

We sailed the 25 miles south to Lindos on the east coast in perfect conditions. We wanted to see the town and anchorage and to set ourselves up at a better angle to the prevailing northwesterly wind in order to sail up the chain of islands from Rhodes to Kos.  

The anchorage in Lindos is extremely well protected. Both it and the town are very picturesque – at least once the daily hordes and the “pleasure” boats (towing inflatable bananas, doughnuts, etc.) depart.   The seabed of the anchorage where we stopped is, however, quite rocky at one end and we anticipate some difficulty extricating the chain and anchor when we leave!

Aerial view of Lindos Bay, fort and Acropolis within

Lindos Bay’s well-protected anchorage

The view from the anchorage was as good as you get:  a sandy beach, white cube buildings clinging to the hillside below the fort, and other yachts in the bay.

View from the anchorage of Lindos town and fort

GOING FORWARD

We plan to leave Lindos early tomorrow morning to head north.  Our route and next stop will depend on the wind strength and direction.  We would happily stay where we are, but time is beginning to run out and we need to move on, particularly since we have paid in advance for the lift out and storage in Leros and flights back to the UK, where we’re looking forward to another summer based at Calshot.